Draped along the spine of the Himalaya, Nepal is a land of sublime scenery, time-worn temples, and some of the best hiking trails on earth. It's a poor country, but it  is rich in scenic splendour and cultural treasures. The kingdom has long exerted a pull on the Western imagination.
It's the kind of country that lingers in your dreams long after you leave it. This is why so many travellers are drawn back to Nepal, armed the second time round with a greater appreciation of its natural and cultural complexity, a stout pair of walking boots and a desire for sculpted calf muscles.
Although the political situation in Kathmandu and elsewhere in Nepal appears to have returned to normal, key issues remain unresolved and the political environment continues to be highly charged, unpredictable and sensitive to rumours. Large gatherings and demonstration can erupt into violence with no apparent warning and should be avoided. If you encounter police and army checkpoints we advise you to heed any instructions given by the authorities. Maoist rebels are present in all districts in Nepal and there is the potential for further violence and disruption.
Imagine a perfect, snow-capped mountain buffeted by icy Himalayan winds. Imagine a millpond calm lake reflecting the snowy peaks. Now imagine a village on the shore, thronged by travellers and reverberating to the sound of 'Om Mani Padme Hum' wafting from shops selling prayer flags, carpets, masks, singing bowls and CDs of Buddhist mantras. That's Pokhara.
The Maoists… I was fortunate in that I didn’t run into any of them but yes, there are security checkpoints and increased police presence. But these are not targeted at you, they are targeted at the local population. Despite the increased presence of the Maoists, there should be no anxiety on the part on the traveller… which country can you travel safe in the knowledge that you are welcome by the rebels? And which country can you go to have a good time and yet know that your money is not going to a faceless organisation but to real people who are trying to earn an honest living?
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